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The
Salvos Go To War
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In Iraq, our required armed military escort, called Shooters, were US National Guardsmen from West Virginia. They were not regular Army at all, just once a month weekend warriors. They had no idea how or why their number had come up for duty in Iraq. They had been in country exactly 19 days, 7 hours and 18 minutes. Dale was 15 years old and Nick was 12.
OK, maybe they were 19 - 20 years old max - but no more. Nick was a theater major and Dale worked at a restaurant back home in the kitchen. Our lives were in the hands of a wannabe actor and a fry cook.
We spent most of our time in the southern oilfields of Iraq near Basra, shooting the damage caused by the war.
The people of Aton village live in grass huts with no electricity. They are fortunate because they get their water from the village well, rather than stagnate surface pools. Wandering through the village dirt streets, we quickly picked up an entourage of curious folk. It was mostly children who unabashedly laughed and stared at us and tried to get into every shot we took. We passed through areas of open stall shops selling anything and everything from seeds, exotic looking fresh veggies, icky looking fly covered meat, motor oil in coke bottles and lots and lots of packs of cigarettes stacked in intricate, decorative towers.
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Its always been a dangerous world. Americans abroad were potential targets long before last fall. Chris and I regularly use a number of safe travel techniques, which I have listed below. We dont plan to quit traveling, so like other road warriors we know, we have become more diligent about safety nowadays. But stop traveling? NEVER!
| Top Ten Salvo Safe Travel Tips: | |
| 10. | Spend as little time as possible in airports, train stations and other means of foreign public transportation. Statistically, these places have a higher percentage of occurrences. And dont walk around looking lost, even if you are. The idea is to keep a low profile while appearing confident. |
| 9. | Use a money belt. They are cheap insurance and are comfortable to wear. I forget I have one on. Keep your passport, airline tickets, special permits and extra money in your money belt and keep your money belt on you at all times. REMEMBER the only thing you really, really have to have to get home is your passport guard it well. |
| 8. | Use a fanny pack for your belongings, not a shoulder bag, and wear it in front, leaving your hands free. Warning - fanny pack has a different connotation in the UK and is not something you talk about in polite company there. |
| 7. | Learn about the culture and current politics of the area before you go. Knowledge of the specific problems and hot spots will help you avoid them. Knowing the local customs will make your trip more enjoyable and keep you from inadvertently offending someone. In parts of Asia pointing with your index finger is considered rude. A thumb to index finger gesture does not mean OK in some cultures. It means you think the other person resembles a certain unmentionable small round body orifice. |
| 6. | Make an effort to blend in and not draw attention to yourself. Dont wear loud clothing and dont talk loudly either. |
| 5. | Double-check all travel and clearance requirements before you leave home. Most places have substantially increased their security, adding requirements and making visas, permits and clearances harder to come by and take longer to get. |
| 4. | Make 2 copies of your Vital Travel Documents. These include your passport, airline tickets, permits and other essential travel documents. Tuck one set in your luggage and leave the other at home where someone can get to it easily at 3:00 a.m. which is most likely the hour it will be back home when you call desperately needing it. Dont leave it locked in your desk drawer! |
| 3. | Carry a detailed electronic equipment list (with serial numbers) as well as a copy of the bill of sale for all camera and electronic gear. This includes your laptop, cell phone, GPS, etc. The equipment list is required in some places and has smoothed our border crossings many times. We treat the list as part of our Vital Travel Documents. |
| 2. | Stay healthy and well rested. Jetlag saps your mental capability as well as making you feel physically drained. Learn how to avoid jetlag's ill effects. |
| And the number one Salvo Safe Travel Tip is: | |
| 1. | Stay alert to your surroundings at all times. Once several years ago while happily lost in the narrow streets of Paris Latin Quarter, Chris decided it was time to study the map. First we moved up the sidewalk about a half block to put a little distance between us and a nearby group of people. With our backs to a shop wall, Chris concentrated on the map while I casually kept an eye on the area. Suddenly and completely without warning, a car veered at high speed into the group where we had been less than 30 seconds before. Horrified, we watched it rundown several people before it hit a wall and bounced back to the street. Not knowing if it was an accident or intentional, we didn't wait around to see what would happen next. With the sound of French police whistles growing louder, and extremely shaken and upset, we quickly walked away. |
Have a safe travel tip of your own? Chris and I would love to hear it! And if you have any travel safety stories you would like to share, send them as well, they may end up here on our site (proper credit given, of course!).
I awake in the predawn hours to the sound of a lonely wind. An ageless, nameless wind - forever doomed to traverse an eternity of trackless desert dunes, endlessly propelling billions and billions of minuet grains of sand along its solemn course.
And each and every one of the tiny sand-suckers head straight for my underpants. Some of the pint-sized perverts miss their mark and come to rest instead between my toes, in the corners of my eyes, deep inside my ears, between my teeth, matted in my hair and in every other niche, fold and cavity I possess.
I HATE sand. Sand is why I dont like beaches. The Sahara is just one humongous beach sans water (or cute life guards or good seafood restaurants). Sand on my skin gives me the heebie-jeebies. Its like fingernails on a chalkboard to me.
For my last birthday, a dear, well-meaning California friend gave me the hottest new yoga tapes. The wise and all-knowing, serene-Buddhist veg-head G-stringed Asian stud-muffin instructor demonstrated all the pretzel moves from his private stretch of Malibu Beach. With the warm California sun sinking into the west behind him, he rolled and twisted in the grit, not caring whether he landed on his mat or not. I cared, deeply. Halfway through watching the tape I began brushing imaginary sand off of me. Right before my eyes, he became SANDPAPER MAN. You could have used him to refinished a large dining room set with 6 chairs, including the hutch. The tapes are permanently on loan to my sister, Teresa, who likes the beach.
I guess Im not cut out for yoga.
Tomorrow we head to the deep desert 300 kilometers further south, to an even more primitive camp.
Sandstorm this evening as we headed to the mess for dinner really nasty. We start shooting at dawn tomorrow, sandstorm permitting.
Shalom,
Suzanne and Chris
Hola, Gringos. Como esta?
We love Venezuela
the people, the countryside, the music and especially the FOOD.
Each time we travel here we find more things to like.
Right now we are in a hired car heading for the middle of nowhere once
again. We flew into Caracas last night, and this morning hopped on a Beechcraft
12-seater bumpy ride into the tiniest airport in the world - San Tome
- arriving around 11:00 a.m.
Our driver speaks nada English, (normale, no problemo) but we manage to negotiate a great lunch on the way to the base. We stop at a big open air restaurante and gorge on giant corncakes called cachapas which we pile high with a mountain of queso a mano (homemade, fresh cheese god help us). This accompanies 2 kilos of brine-soaked and fried pork, which is unbelievably tender and tasty. Since we are on our way to work, we skip our favorite cervaza in this part of the world (Polar, accent on the second syllable) and instead REALLY take our lives in hand by drinking one of the local jugos a delicious fresh fruit drink served over (heres the scary part) LOTS of crushed ice. My favorite is the pena (pineapple). Keep your fingers crossed and say a little stomach prayer on our behalf.
We will be staying in the camp at the rig site tonight. Oh boy. This will be a change from the plush Embassy Suites we stayed at last night in Caracas. Oil field camps can be really primitive. Bet your sombrero that I will be the only chica within 100 kilometers, at least the only chica that works by day....
More later as Im about to puke not from the food (at least not yet) but from the wild ride in the back of this car.
Pray for us, and hope we via con Dios....
Suzanne and Chris
The USA is the only country in the world that believes in washcloths. I don't know how people bath without one, but small, terry towels designed for use in conjunction with water and soap, do not exist outside the big, expensive American hotels. I carry a mans cotton handkerchief for that purpose. It works like a washrag and will dry in about 30 minutes so it's ready to pack and go the next morning.
When in foreign countries, beware if the local food is described as 'a delicacy'. Chances are you will NOT want to put it anywhere near your mouth. Examples: In Indonesia, Durian is known as 'the king of fruit', even though the smell is SO BAD it is against the law to transport it in a taxi or bring it inside a hotel. Haggis in Scotland is made of sheep entrails stuffed inside a bladder and boiled. Mmmmm.
There are over 6 million different ways to build and operate a shower. Each one requires knowledge of the local language, culture and an advanced engineering degree in order to turn it on. Ditto with the commodes.
Speaking of that, when you need 'to go', don't ask for the restroom, they'll think you want to lie down. Dont ask for the bathroom either. Theyll think you want to learn a new shower skill. Universally it's known as 'the toilet'. Get over the fact it sounds a bit indelicate to our American ears, it doesn't to them.
On overseas flights, you want the aisle seat so you don't have to climb over a sleeping seat partner to get to the toilet (see above). The emergency row has twice the leg room, but the extra space is likely to be filled with loud, over-excited American vacationers, cranky Italians in desperate need of a cigarette or Muslims spreading out prayer cloths at dawn and 4 other times a day.
NEVER EVER eat the airplane food outside the USA and western Europe.
Your host will always say the water is safe. Yeah, right.
Travel is always an adventure and the best and worst of life, often at the same time. Staying totally safe on the road is boring, and will keep you isolated from the people, culture and flavor of the country you're in. Doesn't that defeat the reason you're there to begin with?
Study/research the country before you go. Understanding the history and the symbolism behind the ancient, giant stone phallic structure will greatly increase your appreciation and enjoyment. NOTE: All cultures include an ancient, giant stone phallic structure.
If you don't plan it, it won't happen. Just dreaming about travel won't get you there and NEWS FLASH - you're not getting any younger. The world is small, but wide. Get out there and experience it!
We trained down from
the north to the Firth of Forth
(thats the Bay of Forth to you Yanks).
The Forth was the fifth and last Firth we crossed
with Edinburgh on its banks.
The church was inspiring,
the walking was tiring
straight up all the way to the castle.
A bagpiper blew, and his kilt did too,
and I spied his bare bum neath his tassle!
Next we drove toward
the west, whilst doing our best
to stay on the LEFT of the road.
But the road was so tiny - I got chills up my spiney
when a lorry would pass with a load.
We stopped at a whiskey
distillery or two.
Castles and scotch are the things to do.
We got high in the highlands - our fling was quite bonney!
With the scotch in my belly the road got real fonney, eh funny (hic!).
I think B&Bs
are the best way to travel.
You converse with the locals, no tour bus rabble.
Like staying with friends, who are real glad you called.
Who cares if the loo is a stroll down the hall?
Its cozy and
quaint (but cheap it aint)
in the wee out of way little places,
made homey with quilts and chinzted to the hilt,
and even the dog trimmed with laces.
Im now on the
plane, but I think its insane
to head back to the work and the strife.
Dont make me go home, theres a whole world to roam,
And give me the B&B life!
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